Pendelton C. Wallace  Author, Adventurer
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Getting a New Life

8/18/2014

3 Comments

 

Party Time at Chula Vista Marina

On With Our Story . . .

PictureThe Victory in her new home
We’ve been in San Diego two weeks now and I don’t have anything exciting to report. We are settling in, learning our surroundings and getting in touch with family and old friends. It’s a shock to the system, being back in the USA. We have to relearn all the things we un-learned in Mexico.

Going to the grocery store was a strange experience. I walked in and it didn’t look that much different from the Mega or Chedraui supermarkets in La Paz. But I could read the labels on the products and there were all the old familiar brands. In the meat department, there were the cuts of meat that I’d grown up with.

There were many food items that we just couldn’t get in Mexico. In San Diego, they are available in abundance. I felt like a kid in a candy store. I wanted one of those and one of those and one of these over here

Dawn had a similar experience. I went to the store a couple of times before she went. I watched her as she stood in the middle of an aisle with her mouth open.  She did a three hundred and sixty degree turn, just taking in the sheer variety of the items on the shelf.

“Here’s Chinese mustard. I can make cole slaw again,” she said.  She had to physically touch every item on the shelf that she had coveted in Mexico but was unable to get.

We’re on a tight budget and we had the boat stocked with month’s worth of food, so we’re spending the bare minimum for fresh items. However, I have been having a cherry orgy. I love cherries and haven’t had any in two years. They’re in season and relatively inexpensive so I’ve gone wild.

Driving in the US is another experience. I have to catch myself all the time. If I drove here like I drove in Mexico, I’d have an endless series of traffic tickets. In Mexico it’s “every man for himself.” You kinda, sorta pay attention to traffic laws, but they’re really just suggestions. If it’s easier to go down a one way street the wrong way for a block, then go ahead. No one’s going to complain. Don’t bother with stop signs. If you stop, you’re likely to get rear ended.

We learned the unofficial rule for stop signs in Mexico. If it is a four way stop and there are no cars coming the other way, you don’t have to stop. If it’s a two-way stop, then you must stop. Of course, this isn’t the law that the police enforce, it’s just the rule of thumb that the drivers obey.

So, I find myself consciously thinking “Careful, you’re not driving in Mexico anymore.” Maybe it’s making me a better driver.

Most of our days are taken up looking for jobs. The job search itself is a full-time job. We came north because we both need medical attention. We need health insurance to afford the care. To have health care, we need to either have jobs that provide coverage or pay enough that we can afford to buy it.

Ergo, we are in the job market. I never thought I’d be looking for a job again, but I’m back on the tread mill. The market looks good here, there are lots of jobs advertised. I’ve been sending out resumes but haven’t heard back from anybody yet. How come they’re not breaking down my door with job offers?

Dawn is, likewise, sending out bunches of resumes. It’s only a matter of time. We will eventually find jobs and get back into the swing of the American Way.


PictureChula Vista Marina
Moorage in San Diego is ridiculously expensive. I guess the owners figure that we’re all rich yachties and they can take advantage of us. We are in the least expensive marina I could find. We’re tucked away way down south in Chula Vista, far from the center of any boating activities. I’m paying more than double here what I paid in Seattle. It’s outrageous.

However, it’s a really pretty marina. There’s a city park wrapped around the marina and an RV resort next door. The RV resort is owned by the same people, so we get the use of their facilities.

Their facilities include a pool, spa, exercise room and a much better Laundromat that we have in the marina. We take our clothes over there to wash and there’s a lawn where Odin can lay in real grass. Real grass is a treat for him, having lived for the last two years in a country where grass doesn’t exist. He’s used to laying in a clear patch of dirt.

The marina put on a “thank you” party with some of that exorbitant amount of money that we’ve been paying them. It was really quite fun. They had “Joe and the Island Band” playing Jimmy Buffet tunes and reggae with some old-time rock and roll thrown in. The marina provided a BBQ with really nicely done ribs, potato salad and baked beans. Oh, and did I mention the free bar?

There must have been a couple of hundred people there. Many RV resort people were there too. As a matter of fact, there were probably more RVers than boaters. But we all had a good time, eatin’, dancin’ and rockin’ the night away.

That was last weekend. This weekend, the city of Chula Vista decided to outdo the marina. We had the Chula Vista Harbor Fest at the park that surrounds the marina. It was sheer chaos. Thousands of people descended on our quiet little part of the world. Cars were parked on the street all the way up to the freeway. Crowds mobbed the park.

There were all sorts of family activities. Laser tag, bouncing castles and face painting for the kids, three band stands for the adults, vendor booths (with a really good BBQ place), a sea food “taste of Chula Vista” and lots of bars.

You could load yourself down with the free give aways. Of course, we didn’t take much home, we live on a boat. Where would we put it?

I absolutely exhausted myself walking around the park. I had to stop twice on the way home. My knee is bothering me so much that I can’t take that much walking. We got back to the boat and I died.

A pain pill and a Margarita helped. We sat in the cockpit and listened to the music until they shut it down at about eight pm.

I can’t give you an update without letting you know how the writing is going.

I’m well into The Mexican Connection. This is a suspense novel about the Mexican drug wars. Our heroes get lured to Mexico and find themselves in the middle of a war between rival drug cartels.

I’m most of the way through. I’ve got over 65,000 words so far. I expect that I can finish the story in about another 10,000 words. I hope to have it done by the end of the month.

That’s the first draft. Then comes the endless editing, proof reading, designing the cover, designing the interior and all of the hundreds of other task that come with publishing a book.  But I’m making good progress and on track for publishing The Mexican Connection this fall.


PictureThe Bill of Rights
Now for the big news. I’ve kept the best for last.

I have been asked to crew on the one hundred thirty-seven foot schooner, The Bill of Rights, this week. We’re sailing her up to Los Angles for a tall ships festival, then we’ll enter a schooner race from Los Angeles to San Diego to bring her back.

The Bill of Rights is a beautiful ship based here in Chula Vista. She was built in 1970 as a replica of an old-time sailing ship. She didn’t have an engine and has no winches or modern equipment. This is sailing as it was in the 1850’s.

I should confess that they added a two hundred and fifty horsepower Caterpillar diesel engine recently, so we’re not totally at the mercy of wind and current.

I’m a little concerned with the size and complexity of the vessel. I would never captain such a ship, but I’ll be a lowly deck hand so I should be all right.

You know the term “learning the ropes?” That came from sailing. There are miles and miles of ropes (lines) on The Bill of Rights. I will need to learn what each one is for.

She is a gaff-rigged schooner. That means she has two masts, the front mast shorter than the aft mast. She also as two booms on each of her two masts. One boom is under the sail, like on a “regular” sail boat. The other boom is on top of the sail. The sail is suspended between the two booms.

This is an old-fashioned rig. You don’t see it much anymore for several reasons. First of all, it does not go to windward as well as a modern Marconi rigged sail. (That’s the triangular shaped sails you’re used to seeing.) Secondly, there is much more weight aloft, requiring more ballast and making her a heavier boat. Thirdly, it takes more crew to handle the sails.

When we raise the sails, we’re going to have to hoist the gaff boom from the bottom of the mast to the top. This is a very large, heavy piece of wood. It’s actually a tree trunk. We have no winches, a gang of five or six men will heave on a line to lift it to the top of the mast.

When we’re trimming the sails, we will do it by hand too. On most modern boats, we have winches to give us mechanical advantage and make the job of trimming the sails easier. Can you imagine how big the sails are on a hundred and thirty-seven foot vessel? Those bad boys catch a bunch of wind. And we have to trim them by hand. Once again, it will take a gang of men heaving on the lines to bring them under control.

Going north to Los Angeles, we will motor sail, much like the Victory did in our trip north from Mexico. The wind and the current will be against us. I re-read Two Years Before the Mast a couple of years ago in preparation for our sail down the Pacific Coast.

Richard Henry Dana told of the brig Pilgrim’s sail from San Diego to San Francisco. It took them two months against the wind and current. Their return trip to San Diego took two weeks.

That’s the way it will be for us. We will motor north because it would take days of endless tacking to sail there. Then we’ll fly south when we participate in the schooner race.

I’m excited and anxious about this adventure. I’ve dreamed of sailing on such a vessel since I was a little kid, but I’m a little scared that my worn out, beat up old body won’t hold out. Of course, I made it from La Paz to San Diego, so why shouldn’t I be able to do this?

Anyway, when next I write, I’ll have all sorts of new adventures to tell you about. Until then, smooth sailing.


3 Comments

On To San Diego

8/12/2014

1 Comment

 
Picture
Okay, I've begged and pleaded. Now I'm on bended knee. I know that thousands of you have downloaded my books. Yet, I still only have 7 reviews for The Inside Passage.

I really need your help. If you've read The Inside Passage, please post a review on Amazon.com. I'm running a promotion next month and need at least 20 reviews to make it work.

To post your review, click here.
Thank you for your help.

Now, on with our story

PictureOdin checks out the bed at Hotel Mision de Santa Maria
He was born in the summer of his sixty-third year, coming home to a place he’d never been before. (Apologies to John Denver.) Well, not exactly, I’ve been here before, but we are home.

I have always said (for the last two years) that home is where we drop our anchor. It was weird being away from the Victory for the past month. It feels like we are home now, moved in again on the Victory in Chula Vista Marina at the south end of San Diego Bay.

As you know, we committed to watch Mary Lou’s villa in La Paz for the summer. After last summer, I swore that I would not spend another summer in La Paz. Then we met Mary Lou. We loved her house. Three lots fenced in with a high concrete wall, luscious gardens, a pool, a guest house with two bedrooms. She asked us if we would like to house sit for her for the summer. It was six month gig, from May to October.

We knew it got beastly hot in the summer. And we knew that Mary Lou didn’t have air conditioning. But, we did have a portable air conditioning unit on the boat, and we’d spend the afternoons in the pool. The big attraction was the yard. Odin would have all that room to run around instead of being cooped up on the deck of a boat.

Well, you know what they say about the best laid plans. Our little air conditioning unit could not keep Mary Lou’s bedroom cool. The temperatures in the house hit one hundred during the days. In the bedroom, we managed to keep it around ninety degrees. We had three big floor flans to move the air around and make it bearable.

Then there was the pool. It was a life saver in May when the temperatures soared into the hundreds, fully two months before expected. By July, the water in the pool reached ninety-four degrees. It was like swimming in bath water.

Probably the biggest disappointment was the yard. The whole reason we agreed to house sit was so Odin could have all that room to run around in. It was so hot, he wouldn’t go outside. He dashed into the yard to do his business, then came right back and lay down in front of the air conditioner. His mama didn’t raise any dummies.

We were really ready to get out of La Paz, but we made a commitment to Mary Lou. Thank God, she sold the house. The sale went through quickly and closed on August first. We were so out of there.

Dawn planned a leisurely drive from La Paz up to San Diego. We had made the drive several times in the past, always in two days. It was a killer. We decided to take an extra day, stay at a couple of nice hotels, and take our time driving north.

The first day was a seven hour drive from La Paz to Santa Rosalia. Santa Rosalia is the last town on the Sea of Cortez before the highway turns inland and eventually crosses over to the Pacific side of the peninsula.

The woman who took Dawn’s reservation told her to plan for about an hour in construction delays. She was right. Our seven hour drive took eight hours. We had several delays in the flat, straight stretch from La Paz to Ciudad Insurgentes. At that point, the road curls up into the mountains and we twisted, turned, went up and down to Santa Rosalia.

Normally, I wouldn’t dwell on the twisty mountain road, but Dawn had Odin in her car. I should mention that we both drove, since we had two vehicles to get north. When we moved into Casa Mary Lou, we took a bunch of stuff from the boat with us. Now we had to load it into the SUV and my Toyota pickup.

The GMC Yukon is Odin’s car, he just lets Dawn drive it for him. Dawn put the back seat down so Odin had lots of room. Then she loaded the back of the vehicle with stuff from the house. Odin still had lots of room. Dawn put the arm rest down in the front seat, making an opening between the two front seats just wide enough for Odin to sit in. He puts his hind end down on the arm rest, and sits with his front legs extended out. He refuses to lie down while the car is in motion.

Okay, you get the picture, Odin sitting, wedging himself into the opening between the seat backs. Now add in a twisty, torturous mountain road. He did not like the drive. Dawn spent the last three hours of the drive worrying about Odin and how he was doing.

Oh, yeah. I forgot to mention that the GMC Yukon is a truck. It really handles like a truck on a mountain road. My little Toyota pickup didn’t have much problem with the curvy road, but Dawn kept falling behind because she couldn’t take the curves very fast.

Add this all up, plus unscheduled stops for Odin to relieve himself, and she was a wreck by the time we reached Santa Rosalia.


PictureThe courtyard at Hotel Mision Santa Maria
Dawn made reservations at La Casitas hotel on the recommendation of some friends. It did not disappoint. The room was huge, with wide glass windows facing the sea. We entered off a balcony, perched on a cliff hanging thirty feet or so over the shore. When we entered the room, we were in an area about eight feet deep with a table, a love seat and some chairs. Up four steps was the main part of the bedroom. There was a huge king-sized bed, hand crafted armoire, then the bathroom with a huge Mexican shower.

The room was delightful and comfy, for about seventy dollars a night, US.  The best part was the view. From the bed, we could look out the windows right onto the sea. When I woke up in the morning, it was so still, I could have sworn it was a seascape painting.

We had a nice meal in town and quickly dropped off to sleep.

The next day’s drive was, if anything, worse than day one.

The scenery in Baja is spectacular. We are in the “rainy season.” That means that two or three times during the summer a tropical storm passes close enough by to drench the southern tip of the peninsula. Then the dessert blooms.

I am not a dessert person. I prefer green plants and flowers, but when the rains come, the dessert turns green. Dried up old sticks turn into beautiful trees. Grass springs up along side of the road. The cactus bloom. All of the weird, Dr. Seuss looking plants come to life.

As soon as we left Santa Rosalia, we turned west into the mountains. The road is one of the steepest, curviest mountain roads I’ve ever encountered. We climb from sea level to several thousand feet in the matter of a few miles. There are sheer drop offs from the road to the valley two thousand feet below, with no guard rails on the side of the road. There are no turnoffs for slow vehicles and it is impossible to pass a truck if you’re unlucky enough to get behind one.

After we reached the summit, the road straightened and leveled out until we got to Guerrero Negro. Then we turned north and were back into twisty mountain roads. Dawn was a mess when we arrived at San Quintín.

Another day of winding up and down the mountain trails did nothing to calm her nerves.

We stayed the second night at San Quintín. Once again, Dawn found us a nice hotel on friends’ recommendations. The Mission Santa Maria Hotel looked like something out of a Zorro movie.

There was a large courtyard with a tile covered fountain. Arcades surrounded the courtyard with the lobby to one side and a nice restaurant to the other. The food was good and the prices reasonable. The Sunday morning brunch buffet was marvelous.

We loafed around the hotel until about noon on Sunday. No point in getting going too early, we wanted to cross the border in the evening when the traffic had settled down.

The road between Ensenada and Tijuana crumbled and fell into the sea during an earthquake last spring. There is another road still open, but it goes through every little whistle stop town along the way, is narrow and twisty. I opted to take the cut off to the Tecate border crossing.

We had not been this way before. The scenery was beautiful. We drove through rich farm country and vast vineyards. This is Mexico’s wine growing region.

The drive added about an hour to our trip. However, I thought, we’d make that up with a quick border crossing.

Boy was I wrong. We had been told about how sleepy the Tecate border crossing was. Never any traffic.  Much easier to get across than at Tijuana.

We waited in line for almost three hours to get across.

Then, we were way out in the middle of nowhere. Once again, we had to negotiate twisty mountain roads to get back to civilization, this time in the dark.

We finally rolled into the marina parking lot at about one in the morning, tired, sore and with raw nerves. But we were home.

The Victory welcomed us home. By the time we got all of our stuff unloaded (the security guard warned us about leaving it in the cars. They’ve had a lot of theft problems.), it was four thirty in the morning.

But we’re here. Back in the USA. Ready to start the newest chapter in our lives. I don’t know how long we’ll be here, but we need to get some medical problems taken care of. Then who knows? We’ll figure out where we’re going next then.


1 Comment

Log of the Victory - We Made It!

8/5/2014

2 Comments

 
It's a new month and we're in a new country. Here is our last day of the epic journey from La Paz to San Diego and a wrap up.

Now I can go back to important things, like finishing The Mexican Connection.

Speaking of writing things, I can still use your help. I need reviews. It doesn't matter which of my books you've read, I need reviews. I'm getting ready for a September promotion and need at least 20 reviews of The Inside Passage. I only have 7. Surely 13 of you stalwart readers can spare five or ten minutes to write a review on Amazon.com or GoodReads.

Sunday, July 6th, 2014 - Day 11

PictureSan Diego comes into view
Back in the USA, back in the USA. Sing that to the tune of Springsteen’s “Born in the USA.”

We made Point Loma, the entrance to the channel for San Diego Bay at about 10 am. After eleven days at sea and more than a thousand miles, we’re finally here.

For most of our time at sea, we have been alone. The occasional albatross or dolphin visited us, but there have been few boats and no human contact.

Now, it’s rush hour on I-5. There are boats everywhere. The channel is full of them. Big boats, little boats, speed boats, fishing boats, sailboats, you name it. (That sounds a little bit like a Dr. Seuss book, doesn’t it?)

I can’t believe the traffic. There are traffic laws for boats, just like there are for cars. The only problem is that most of the idiots out on boats don’t know them. You can’t depend on the other boat to obey the rules, so the main rule is “Don’t hit anybody.”

We weave through the plethora of boats and make our way to the Customs dock. It’s Sunday, remember. As captain, I’m the only one allowed to leave the ship.

I trudge up to the Police Dock office and call Customs. They are supposed to send someone down to clear us into the country.

I get a recorded message “Our office hours are 9 am to 5 pm, Monday through Friday.”

How am I supposed to get us cleared in if no one’s there? I call their emergency number and get a message.  “I’m away from the phone right now, leave a message.”

I leave a message.


PictureEntering San Diego Bay
My US cell phone doesn’t work. I asked the girls to suspend my number to save money. Now I have to call Verizon to get it turned back on. Thankfully, that is a simple process.

We wait. And we wait. We are tied up at the police dock right next to the holding tank pump out station. A large harbor cruise vessel wants to come in and pump out. We can’t move. We are waiting for Customs. Finally, the cruise vessel gives up and goes away.

An hour passes, then two hours. Finally, Customs calls me back. They are checking in a Japan Airlines flight at Lindbergh Field. They’ll come to the dock when they are done.

Another half hour passes and finally, two CBP agents arrive.

They were very nice and polite. It was the easiest border crossing I’ve ever made. They didn’t confiscate our food. But it took forever for them to get there. I guess a sailboat entering the country with four people on board is not a high priority.

We fought our way through the vessel traffic and made it to the fuel dock. We took on 199 gallons of Diesel. That, along with the thirty gallons we put in the tank in San Jose, added up to 229 gallons of fuel for the trip. Our tanks hold 300 gallons, so we had plenty of reserve when we got here.

Total fuel costs: $996. Ouch.

Back out into the bay and in all that traffic. We motored south to Chula Vista.

We found our marina and slip easily. I have been here before. As a matter of fact, the Victory was in this marina when I bought her.

I pulled into the assigned slip and several marina residents and the dock master were there to handle our lines. Fortunately, it was a smooth landing. We were headed directly into the wind and that helped.

When I checked in, the dock master asked for my license. I handed him my Coast Guard captain’s license. I didn’t realize he meant my driver’s license.

“A real licensed captain, huh?” the dock master said. “That explains why you made such a good landing.”

I just kept quiet and accepted the praise.

Friday, July 11th, 2014 - In La Paz

PictureThe Victory in her her home
I’m back in La Paz now. KC and Vienne flew back to Spokane safely and Sam is home in Seattle. The trip back to La Paz was easy, but I can’t say “I’m home.” My home is tied up to the dock in San Diego.

It’s hot in La Paz. I’m anxious to get back to the mild temperatures of San Diego. Dawn wants to buy a second air conditioner for the house here. We made a commitment to Mary Lou that we would stay here through the summer, but I’m really questioning the wisdom of that decision.

The crew of the Victory spent all day Monday cleaning her up after her long voyage. On Tuesday we went to the Birch Aquarium at Scripps Institute in San Diego. Wednesday I spent cleaning and organizing and putting away. I needed to get Victory ready for her two-month hiatus.

As I cleaned and put things away, I sang “I’ll See You In September” to myself over and over. I am sad at leaving her alone. I imagine this is how Dawn felt when we left Odin in San Francisco and San Diego. I want to get back to her and make sure she’s all right.

My friend Ron will watch her for me. He has a boat in the marina there in Chula Vista and is there every weekend. He’ll go down to the Victory and make sure the mooring lines are OK and the bilges are dry. If something bad happens, I guess I’ll have to drive up, but I don’t anticipate any problems.

Now it’s time to turn to writing. I have to get my short story Mirror Image ready for publication. I have the cover done, but I need to format the inside of the book.

Then I have to complete The Mexican Connection. I’m about half-way done with that. But once the manuscript is complete, the process just begins. I need to have it edited, proof-read, formatted, etc. It’s a long complicated process, not for the faint of heart.

So, for the next couple of months I will put the Victory and sailing out of my mind and focus on the business of writing.

I hope you have enjoyed this little tale and that everyone has a great summer.


2 Comments

Log of the Victory - Days 9 and 10

7/30/2014

1 Comment

 

The Victory Beats to Windward

This video will give you a small taste of what it is like to be sailing on the open ocean.

Friday, July 4th, 2014 - Day 9

PictureVienne climbs out on the bow sprit
Happy 4th of July.

We are crossing the Gulf of Sebastian Viscaino today. That means we are standing off shore. At the peak, we were about fifty miles out. We are closing with the coast on the other side of the gulf at 5 pm tonight and have land in sight about twenty miles away.

Today has been a glorious day at sea. The day broke cloudy, but on my watch (8 am to noon) the clouds burned off. The sea is a dark, indigo blue. The sky is light blue with a few straggling clouds to be seen. The winds are (unfortunately) light and the sea is calm with a long, slow undulating swell.

We are motor sailing along at about 4.5 knots. Not as fast as I’d like, but at least we’re making progress.

The day is so beautiful, that I can’t help but think of Papa. This was his neighborhood. We saw a tuna boat yesterday, heading south to the fishing grounds. At this time of year, the albacore are off the southern end of the Baja Peninsula. They will work their way north during the summer and by fall, they’ll be off the Washington coast.

I stand at the shrouds and look out over the sea. I feel Papa’s presence. He is out there somewhere, in his little wooden troller, chasing the elusive albacore. And he is having the time of his life.


PictureA tuna boat heads south
We are still about twenty miles southwest of the Sacrament Reef. The reef is the sight of numerous shipwrecks. We will give it wide berth. Now we are coming up on the places that Papa and I fished and visited that one summer so very long ago. This is why I made this trip, to revisit those locations and connect with Papa.

If you want to read about our adventures, pick up a copy of Blue Water & Me, Tall Tales of Adventures With My Father.

I remember one time, after I moved away from Eugene, that Papa told me that sometimes he would stop in my old VIP’s Restaurant for a cup of coffee, “with Penn’s ghost.’ Well that’s how I feel. I am sailing with Papa’s ghost today.

It was a gorgeous day, so it stands to reason that it was a beautiful evening. KC and Vienne came on deck at sunset to watch the sun go down. We didn’t see the green flash today. After it got dark, we had a little 4th of July celebration.

I had some expired flares, so I let KC fire them off for Vienne. She was very disappointed that we didn’t make it to San Diego in time to see the fireworks, but she really liked the flares.

I made it through another night watch. Did I mention that I hate night watches? Anyway, only one more. We should be in San Diego before my night watch on Sunday. We’ll be able to tie to a dock, hook up to electricity and water and have showers and clean clothes. We’re all looking forward to it.


Saturday, July 5th, 2014 - Day 10

PictureAnother day comes to an end
  Another beautiful day. I wish everyone could see the color of the ocean miles off shore. I can’t really describe it.

We have clouds today and the temperatures seem a little cooler. I think we’re getting close to the USA. We are currently 100 miles from Point Loma, the entrance to San Diego Bay.

We had favorable winds all night long and the Victory has been charging along at 6 to 7 knots since midnight. I think she’s heading for the barn.

It has been a long trip. Fortunately, we have not had any major mechanical problems. Dawn supplied us well with food. We are starting to get anxious about going through customs.

One time KC was bringing a boat from Mexico to Canada. They did not intend to stop in the US. However, when they stopped in Ensenada for fuel, the fuel dock was out of diesel. They had to stop in San Diego for fuel.

Even an hour’s stop for fuel means going through Customs. For some reason, the CBP agent was in a snit and confiscated all of the food aboard the boat. Even though they would only be in the USA for an hour, he wouldn’t allow them to bring their food into the country.

That cost KC and his crew over a thousand dollars and a lost day to restock their galley.

We don’t want to have to give up all the food aboard. However, if we do have to, we wouldn’t have to replace it. We are just going home after we get the boat secured, we’re not sailing on.


PictureLos tres marineros
The weather for the last few days has been idyllic. Very light wind (which is usually not a good thing for a sailboat, but when you’re headed north into a northwest wind, that isn’t bad.) and calm seas. That allows us to motor into the seas without taking a lot of water over the bow. The boat has been comfortable. With the exception of one night, we have had a nice smooth motion to rock us to sleep at night.

I have been cooking all of the dinners because my watch has me off the deck at dinner time. On occasion, cooking has been a challenge as the boat heels over to the wind. Try keeping two hot pans on the stove while trying to chop onions.

Fortunately, our range is equipped with fiddle rails. These are metal rails that we can use to fasten the pots down to the stove so that they can’t move. All you need to do is use a deep enough pot that the contents don’t slop over.

Late in the evening, just before dark, we got the treat of the trip. Vienne and I were below eating dinner. KC and Sam were on deck, they had already finished dinner.

“Vienne, get up here NOW!’ KC shouted.

We clambered up to the deck.

“There’s a whale, just off the bow.”

Sure enough, we saw a spout. For the next several minutes, we saw spouts in front and on our starboard side. Then we saw the whales. Fin backs. Finbacks are the world’s second largest whales.

One surfaced within a few feet of the boat. It was amazing, awe inspiring. The whale that surfaced next to us was bigger than the boat, and this is a big boat.

For about a half hour a pod of three or four whales paced us, swam along side of us. I am overwhelmed by the size and grace of these creatures.

After the whale show, I decided to reduce sail for the night. KC suggested that we go with the stays’l and mizzen for the night and I concurred. We had a slight breeze and the stays’l would give us some drive and maybe an extra half knot.


PictureKC on the bow sprit
I learned on the trip south that we reduce sail before dark. On two nights on that trip, we got caught with too much sail up. At three in the morning, I had to call the crew on deck to reduce sail in the dark. It wasn’t fun. We lose a knot or so in speed, but we don’t have night time emergencies.

KC climbed the main mast (we have steps to allow a person to climb high enough to work with the big sail) and I manned the winch. I put the winch handle in the winch (mind you, this is a big, heavy, steel handle) and undid the brake.

The sail plummeted down the mast. The winch handle spun. My head was in the way. I got knocked on the head like you wouldn’t believe. It hurt.

I staggered and yelled, but of course, I had to get back to my station and get the sail down. We couldn’t stop in the middle of the process to attend to the fool who couldn’t keep his head clear.

We got the sail secured and KC began to fuss and fret about my head. It hurt. I was dizzy and it felt as if my head was filled with cotton.

I know that you’re not supposed to sleep when you’ve had a concussion, but I couldn’t keep my eyes open. KC took the first hour of my watch and I went below for a nap.

Now, I thought about playing the knock on the head for all it was worth and getting out of my last night watch. KC volunteered to stand it for me. I guess I have too much Papa in me. I got up in an hour and finished my watch, fuzzy head and all.

As we end the day, we are about ten miles off of Ensenada, the last port in Mexico. Tomorrow we will cross into the United States.

PictureConnie was with me today
Something very strange happened to me today.

I already told you that I am sailing with Papa’s ghost. These are his home waters; this is where he fished for sixteen years. They were the best years of his life. He explored and adventured and made a great living. He met and married the girl of his dreams and she went off adventuring with him. He has been sailing with me all week.

Today, I met another ghost.

I was on watch and KC was in the cockpit talking with me. I sneezed and reached for my handkerchief. It was a fresh hanky; I had showered and put on clean clothes that afternoon. I brought the hanky to my nose and smelled her smell.

Connie always used to iron my handkerchiefs and put a drop of her perfume, White Linen, on them. Every time I used them, I thought of her.

This handkerchief must have sat in the bottom of my drawer unused for four years. When I packed for the trip, I grabbed all of my hankies and threw them in my duffle bag. I just happened to pull that one out.

My heart stopped. I felt her presence. She was there with me for an instant. Connie was a good sailor. She went off adventuring with me time after time, even after she knew better. And here she was, fifty miles off the coast of Baja California, sending me a message. It was OK. Everything was going to be all right.

I told KC about it and he came over and hugged me. It wasn’t until he hugged me that I cried.

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Log of the Victory - Days 7 & 8

7/22/2014

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The Beautiful Metropolis of Turtle Bay

Wednesday, July 2nd, 2014 - Day 7

PictureA lovely old schooner leaves Turtle Bay
We’ve been at sea a week. The good news is that we are well over half way there. Today we will make Turtle Bay.

KC and I have been debating whether we should stop or not. Turtle Bay is probably the best anchorage on the Pacific Coast of Baja, but it is a festering sore of a town.

They used to be a prosperous fishing village, but the fish processing plant closed down. Now it is a dying town. Their only source of revenue is visiting yatistas. And man, do they try to get every centavo they can.

Pedro, the one-armed guard on the dock (or should I say the one-armed bandido?), asks for a tip to watch your dinghy. I have heard that if you refuse to tip him, your dinghy just might come untied and drift away.

The dock itself is a death-trap. A long narrow float rocks back and forth, threatening to dump you in the putrid water. A steel staircase is a short four-foot leap from the dock, but the bottom two steps are rusted out and it doesn't have a hand-rail. At the top of the staircase is a rotting pier covered in bird poop. A not at all inviting way to come ashore.


The town is ugly. Butt ugly. It is built on dirt. There are no paved roads, no lawns, no flowers. I see no reason to stop there.

Most sailboats need to stop for fuel. Sailboats don’t carry a lot of fuel because they are supposed to sail. However, the Victory was designed to cross oceans. We have 300 gallons of fuel aboard. We can motor to San Francisco, maybe Portland without filling our tanks.


PictureKC and Vienne stroll through beautiful downtown Turtle Bay
So, we don’t need to stop at Turtle Bay. However, I really want to anchor and have a quiet night and a good sleep.

KC is pushing for going on to Cedros Island, about twenty or thirty miles north of Turtle Bay and stopping for the night.

We got to Turtle Bay around 2 pm. I decided that we had had enough. We went in and dropped the hook. I didn’t want to sail on for another four or five hours. I was tired and so was the crew.

Vienne wanted to go ashore. Sam thought he’d like to see the town too. We dropped the dinghy in the water and put the outboard on her. Then KC, Sam and Vienne went into town.

I stayed on the boat and cleaned and organized. I also put a ham in the oven for dinner.

Wonder of wonders, we had cell phone connections. All of my texts to Dawn were sent out. Sam called Marti, I called Dawn. We got weather reports and canceled our airline reservations. The wonders of modern technology.

I just forgot it was the first of the month. I should have paid bills before we left.

We had a wonderful ham dinner, then retired to our neutral corners for the night.

Thursday, July 3rd, 2014 - Day 8

PictureSam in Turtle Bay
I talked to Dawn this morning. Tomorrow is the 4th of July. Unfortunately, we will spend it in International Waters off the coast of Mexico. I had hoped to be in San Diego by now.

We left Turtle Bay at 8 am. We motored out of the bay, then KC and I set the main. It was my watch so everyone else went below. A little later Sam came on deck. The wind was beginning to stir so we set the stays’l.

In about an hour, I raised the jib. We were flying along at around six knots. We have to sail west for about twenty five miles to clear Isla Natividad and Isla Cedros. I want to pass west of them so that we can have unrestricted access to whatever wind there is.

And the wind is quite nice thank you. As I write this, we are bowling along at about 7 knots with all four sails flying. We’re holding our course. In about two hours we will tack and head north.

Did you hear that? NORTH! That’s the direction we’ve wanted to go since we left La Paz. We are finally almost clear of all the capes, islands, headlands, etc so that we can sail north to the USA.

We are about 300 miles south of Point Loma right now. That means we should be able to get to San Diego by Sunday. I’m really hoping.

This has been an adventure, but we’re all ready to be home.

Dawn told me the weather report was for 13 knot winds today, then light wind and smooth sea for the rest of the week. The wind has held steady at 13 knots all day today.

On my night watch, we negotiated the channel between Isla Natividad and Cedros Island. The wind was right on our nose, as is to be expected, so we had to tack back and forth.


PictureThe kids are fascinated by Vienne
A big power boat passed us in the night. At first I saw a light on the horizon to the south, then as my watched progressed, they pulled up even with us, then disappeared over the horizon to the north. I hate them. I am so jealous of their speed. Of course, I wouldn’t want to pay their fuel bill.

Speaking of fuel . . .

I settled into bed, but wasn’t asleep yet when the engine stopped. I jumped from bed and ran forward to see what happened. Sam met me in the galley.

“What’s going on?” I asked.

“Nothing. I mean, I didn’t do anything. The engine just stopped.”

KC was up and running for the tool chest.

“Hold on,” says I. “Let’s check the fuel.”

Sure enough, the port tank was empty and the fuel filter was black with yuck. KC crawled down into the engine room and changed tanks and filters, then the engine started right up and ran like a champ.

We carry 300 gallons of fuel. The port tank was empty and the starboard tank was down about 1/8th. That means we have about 100 gallons of fuel left. We have about 235 miles left to go. At 4 knots that’s 58.75 hours. We’re burning about a gallon an hour, so we’ll have about 40 gallons left in the tank when we get to San Diego. That sounds like a safe margin to me.

I’ll check the fuel gauge when we get close to Ensenada, the next available fuel stop, to see if I still think we’ll make it, but I’m pretty sure we won’t have to stop.

Anyway, in less than fifteen minutes we were up and running and on our way again. Then I couldn’t get to sleep. What a long night.

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Log of the Victory - Days 5 & 6

7/16/2014

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Dolphin Video - This is kind of long. Make sure you have at least 4 minutes to watch before hitting the start arrow.
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First of all, I have to take care of some business.

If you've read Hacker for Hire and are a Catrina Flaherty fan, you're going to love this. I just published a Cat Flaherty short story. Down load your copy today from Amazon.com.

This story takes place before Hacker for Hire and before Cat meets Ted. But it's taken from a true-life story that is too horrible to believe.

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Tomorrow is the start of my Magical Mystery Bog Tour.

For the next four months I will be making a series of guest blog appearances and interviews. Here's my schedule for the first few days:

17th July – Book Feature at Mommy Adventures

18th July – Twitter View with OB Book Tours

19th July – Twitter Blast with OB Book Tours

                                 22nd July – Author Interview 1 at Page Turning Books

Be sure to go to these sites and check it all out.


Download your copy today from Amazon.com.

Now, on with our story.


Monday, June 30th, 2014 - Day 5

PictureKC and Vienne
Today has been an uneventful day, just the kind you hope for when you are cruising. We started the day with a nice breeze. KC had the stays’l up before I got on deck this morning. There was a 15 knot wind, so I decided to raise the jib. Why not sail when there’s wind?

Of course, the wind was coming from where we wanted to go, so we had to tack back and forth. It doubles the distance we need to cover, but it’s a lot more fun.

All of the systems are working well. We make a thorough engine check and bilge check at the beginning of each watch. Nothing to complain about.

We’ve seen dolphin today and had an albatross do a fly by. Early this morning Vienne and I saw an oil tanker pass several miles astern of us. It was heading west. Where could it have been going?

We had a power boat to starboard that KC tried to hail on the radio. They didn’t answer. A short while ago, we spied a sailboat on a parallel course and tried to hail it. Doesn’t anyone listen to their radios?

Tropical storm Douglass is brewing to the south of us. It should not cause us any problems, but I’m still a little worried. We are crossing the big bight between Magdalena Bay and Turtle Bay. Rather than hugging the shoreline (there aren’t any good anchorages there anyway) we are crossing from point to point. Our course takes us well off shore. We are out of sight of land. The crossing will take two days.

If Douglass does not behave himself and stay to the south and west, we could be in for it. I have every confidence in the weather services, but I still see the clouds developing to the south and worry a little.

We just stopped to do an engine check. We shut the engine down for the first time since Cabo and checked oil, etc. While we were lying to, we were amazed at how clear the water is. It is deep blue and we could see the day light penetrating far below the surface. I would guess that we could see forty or fifty feet down.


PictureThe day draws to a close
Late in the afternoon a pod of dolphin arrived. They were working a school of fish and dozens of dolphin swarmed the surface. They came from all directions. As we cruised along, we stumbled into their school. We were surrounded by dolphin. The water was so clear that we could see them well below the surface.

On the surface, the dolphin appeared to be dark gray on top with lighter gray sides. Underwater, their sides looked like glowing green neon. They swam alongside the Victory, then leapt from the water to draw a breath before submerging again.

What fun! Vienne absolutely loved the dolphin.

It is now 12:30 am. I just got off of my night watch. I hate night watches. The world is black. OK, there is a canopy of stars above, but the black sea merges with the black sky, We are totally alone, far out in the Pacific Ocean. No other vessels in sight, no land. I feel like an infinitesimal speck in the universe.

Sam has been having problems with sea sickness. He feels all right on deck, but when he goes below, he gets sick. Tonight, he decided to stay on deck after dinner. It was great for me. I had company to help pass the long watch. We chatted about a thousand things. Then he got one of the mats out and sacked out on the aft cabin roof.

I continued my watch alone. At first I read my Kindle. It ruins the night vision. I stop after each paragraph, put the Kindle to my chest to hide the light and let my eyes re-adjust to the dark. Then I do a quick inspection of the boat and the sea around us. No other boats, so I can read the next paragraph.

Unfortunately, it was almost discharged so I couldn’t read long. After I put it down, I sang. There’s no one to hear me so I can go through my entire repertoire. I know enough songs to fill about an hour. That left one hour of my watch to fill.

It is surprisingly cold. I wore long underwear tonight. Last night with just jeans, my knees were killing me by the end of my watch. It was better tonight. My knees don’t hurt, but they don’t work either. I have a hard time climbing down the companionway ladder or going up and down the steps in the cabin. I gotta get them fixed.

Now, I am warmed up. I have had a quick snack, left over orange chicken and rice, and I’m going to bed. We have completed five days of our journey. We should hit the halfway point late tomorrow morning. We will probably be back in San Diego by Sunday, one day after our reservations for flights home.


Tuesday, July 1st, 2014 - Day 6

PictureThe Victory beats to windward
Not much to report on today. We continue to cruise across the southern bight in Baja. Tomorrow we should make Turtle Bay.

We decided not to stop at Magdalena Bay. We were well off-shore and I didn’t want to run in, then have to run back out again. It would cost us a full day. So, we continued on our course.

I thought I’d talk a little about night watches since there was nothing special going on.

I have the 8 to 12 watch. Not bad in the morning. I get up, make coffee and take a cup to KC up on deck. We have a cuppa together and watch the day begin, then I do my pre-watch checks and take the deck.

At night it’s different. I make dinner and we eat on deck between 7 and 7:30. After dinner, I do my checks and take the deck. It is cooling down, so the rest of the crew disappears below.

The first hour is easy. I watch the sun set and get the boat ready for the night. I turn on the running lights and check that everything is working. I do a tour around the deck to make sure that nothing is out of place that might trip someone in the dark. Then I clean the cockpit up and get ready for a long night at sea.

The sun goes down around 8:30. I change the lighting on the instruments for night running. By 9 it is totally dark.

I watch the stars, sing a little, then get out my Kindle. Reading sure helps pass the time.

I am overjoyed when 10 pm rolls around. I am at the halfway point in my watch. I leave the deck and go below after checking for other vessel’s lights. I plot our position on the chart and note our progress. If we had serious navigation mistakes, this is where they would show up.

I lolly gag below for a few minutes, warming up, then I grab a chocolate chip cookie and go back on deck. It is getting cold. Tonight Sam brought  a blanket on deck with him when he relieved me. What a good idea. We used to do this when we were coming down the coast from Seattle. Wrap the blanket around your knees to keep them warm.

This is sub-tropical Mexico folks, why is it so cold at night?


PictureSam on watch
Time passes slowly. I read some more. I start singing. A few rounds of “Barnacle Bill the Sailor” will usually warm me up.

I get very stiff, sitting behind the wheel. I get up and move around. My joints are stiff, I have to work them out a little to be able to move. Whose idea was this trip anyway?

Time passes even more slowly. I check my watch with a flash light. Only fifteen minutes have passed. Damn! I ponder the fate of the world. I think about my writing. What kind of trouble can I get my heroes into?

It’s now 11:30. I can do the last half hour of my watch standing on my head. (Can you tell I’ve watched too much Sopranos?).

The minutes drag on. Where is Sam? Surely he should be doing his pre-watch checks by now. Is he even awake? Should I go down and rouse him?

No, I better wait. It would show a lack of confidence if I went looking for him. He’s a big boy. He’ll do what he has to.

Sure enough, it’s midnight and Sam appears in the companionway. We chat for a few minutes. Everything is OK on his checks, nothing is going on on deck.

Finally, I turn the deck over to him and I’m free. I go below and warm a snack. I’m cold, hungry and tired.

I’ll eat my snack and crawl into bed. Then I’ll try to sleep while the boat is jostling around. It’s a little like trying to sleep in a cement mixer.

Then the day is done.

For me. Sam is at the start of his watch and poor KC has the 4 am to 8 am watch.


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The Log of the Victory - Days 3 and 4

7/13/2014

0 Comments

 

Vienne Rides the Waves

OK folks, I've been breaking the rules of Marketing here. I know I'm supposed to give you a pitch for my books before I post my blog for the day. I just got so excited about the trip that I forgot.

So, to make up for lost time, go read Hacker for Hire. There, I said it, now on to today's positing.

Saturday, June 28th, 2014 - Day 3

PictureWe slip out of Cabo early in the morning
KC and I were up at 6:30 to get the boat going. We pulled the anchor and were underway shortly after 7. In the quiet morning air, we rounded the Cape that had so frustrated us yesterday.

A gentle breeze picked up. Soon we were bashing into twenty-two knot winds trying to get around Cabo Falso. This time I wasn’t turning back. If we could round Cabo Falso, the wind was favorable for us to raise the sails.

It took two hours, but finally, we were far enough at sea and free of the cape. We raised the double reefed main to stabilize the boat’s motion. We motored on for an hour or so, and the wind began to abate slightly.

When the wind gauge read twenty knots, we decided to raise the stays’l. This gave us the ability to sail into the wind. Our motion settled down remarkably. The wind dropped to fifteen knots and we raised the big Genoa jib. Now we were moving, but not fast enough. It didn’t take me long to shake the reefs out of the main.

KC wasn’t enthusiastic about shaking out the reefs, but he was happy as a pig in mud when the wind caught the big main and we started scooting.

While raising the main, KC has to climb the mast. He lost his footing and was dangling from the rigging. We thought he was showing off. He said he was in fear of his life. That’s what happens when you show off all the time. When you are in danger, no one believes you.


PictureThe Victory bashes into strong head winds
When we shook the reefs out of the main, I had to climb onto the cabin top. I lost my footing and took a fall. I have a big knot on my head where I hit it against the mast and I’m sore all over. Not only that, but I broke my sun glasses.

I told KC that I can’t be held responsible for any decisions I make for the next 24 hours. He really wants to turn southwest to Hawaii. Don’t be surprised if I send this from Hilo.

We were doing six and seven knots motor sailing into the wind, flying along. All of a sudden, there was laughter and song in a crew that had been tired and moody an hour earlier.

The wind held for the whole morning and into the afternoon. We tacked in towards shore, then tacked out about ten miles off shore. The wind shifted slightly to the south and we were able to hold a course just west of north. We couldn’t have asked for better.

Sailing along on a deep blue sea, under a light blue sky, fat, dumb and happy, what could go wrong?

As the afternoon passed, the wind continued to die. After I got up from a nap at about 2:30, we took down the head sails and motored directly northwest on our rhumb line course.

At 3:30 KC started his checks before taking over the watch. We were in trouble. The V-belt on the engine broke. Damn! Without the V-belt, the water pump wouldn’t work to cool the engine and the alternator would not produce electricity.

“Do you have a spare belt?” KC asked.

A perfectly legitimate question. What self-respecting sea captain would go to sea without spare V-belts?

“No.”

Then I thought about it. I had a spare parts kit and I vaguely remember seeing a V-belt in the kit. Was it the right one? I dug it out and viola! It was!

KC had the new belt on in fifteen minutes and we were on our way.

Tonight we have Dawn’s lasagna for dinner. It’s cooking as I write and the smell is driving me crazy. I hope that we have no more adventures that I have to tell you about before tomorrow, but if we do, I’ll be back at the keyboard.

By the way, KC has informed me that adventure is the ability to withstand suffering. I guess we are very adventurous people.

We just saw our first albatross. They bring good luck to a ship. We need all the good luck we can get. We also saw marlin jumping and flying fish. We had a squid on deck this morning.


Sunday, June 29th - Day 4

PictureVienne, the boat monkey
What a lousy night. We bashed directly into the wind all night and the boat bounced around like a fishing bobber. Every time I was just about asleep, I got jostled out of my bed. Neither Sam nor KC got any sleep either. We’re all zombies this morning.

I got up and made coffee, then took it on deck for KC. I relieve KC on the watch and Sam relieves me. We had wind this morning. Before the watch change, we raised the jib and started motor sailing. Unlike yesterday, the wind hasn’t died yet. We have been sailing all day.

We can’t go directly on our course; the wind is blowing from exactly where we’re going. However, we are flying along so I don’t mind tacking back and forth every four hours or so.

I just read a passage in Windy Hinman’s Cheapskates on the Loose that says navigation is simple. You can always tell the direction you want to go by the wind direction. The wind is always blowing from your destination. That’s certainly true of this trip.

At this rate, we will make Magdalena Bay tonight. This is our first big check point on the West Coast of Baja and a planned rest stop. I’m not sure if we’ll stop or not. We’ll get there around midnight and I’m not anxious to negotiate the channel in the dark. On the other hand, we are all tired today and a restful night’s sleep would be welcome.

Our next planned stop is Turtle Bay, about thirty-six hours further up the coast. Two days and a night will get us there.

Vienne is coming into her own. She has managed to keep herself occupied the whole trip, but yesterday she discovered the rigging. She learned to climb onto the main boom.

Today, she climbed onto the mizzen boom and promptly decided it was her horse. After a while she changed that. Now it’s a Pegasus. The mizzen is White Wings. She named the stays’l boom Midnight because it still has its black sail cover on it.

She straddles the boom like a horse and rides off to adventures.

She also took a little nap on the mizzen boom this afternoon. What a monkey.

On my watch, Vienne and I saw a sea turtle. We were far enough off-shore that land isn’t visible, just us and the great big ocean. And there, in the middle of the great big ocean, was a turtle floating lazily by. My father would have wanted to catch him for dinner.

Sam has been fighting sea sickness. He hasn’t done an off-shore passage before. He seems OK on deck, but when he goes below, his stomach does cartwheels. He is being very selective about what he eats. I’m guessing he will lose weight on this trip. I should be so lucky.

KC is in his element. The worst day at sea is better than the best day ashore for him. He hasn’t been to sea for five years, so I’m scratching a major itch for him. We’ll see how long it takes him to get back on his boat after this.

The Victory is performing like a champ today. No mechanical problems, everything looking good. We are motor sailing. For the uninitiated, that means we have the sails up, but are using the engine to give us a boost.


PictureThe sun sets into the Pacific Ocean
We’re bucking into a pretty stiff current. With the engine alone, we were doing about 4 knots. With sails alone, we mushed along at about 3 knots. But with the sails and the engine, we are doing 6.5 knots. Pretty good for a heavy old concrete boat working her way to windward.

Of course, we can’t go directly towards our destination. The wind is blowing from exactly where we want to go. But with the engine’s help, we can sail pretty close to the wind and we are flying through the water. Even if we aren’t getting there any faster, we’re having way more fun.

The sunset tonight was spectacular. We had a clear sky and the big orange orb slowly descended into the darkening sea. As the last of the orange disappeared, we had the famous green flash. You don’t see it very often, but in the tropics, when the sun sets sometimes you get a momentary green flash. It’s wonderful to see.

It was cold tonight. I just came off of my night watch. I wore jeans, a sweat shirt and a wind breaker. About half way through my watch I traded the wind breaker for a parka. I should have put on long underwear too. My knees are killing me from the cold. And we’re still 600 miles down the coast of Baja.


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Here's a little bit of writing news. I got back the proofs for Mirror Image today. I will be publishing this Catrina Flaherty short story soon.

This is a kinda, sorta prequel to Hacker for Hire. It's your chance to see Cat Flaherty in one of her early adventures, before she met Ted Higuera.

Watch for it. It should be available for a free download in the next couple of weeks.

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The Log of the Victory - On to Cabo

7/11/2014

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PictureSam floats on the azure sea
Thursday June 26th, 2014

Day 1

KC had the nerve to wake me up at 7:45. My plan was to be up at 7, go to the fuel dock, top off the tanks and get underway by 8.

We got the boat ready to go, motored to the fuel dock and topped off the tanks. Then I walked up to the Marina office to pay our bill. I left with a sour taste in my mouth.

We stayed  in Marina Palmira for over a year. We spend tens of thousands of dollars with them. We were good tenants and helped them publicize the marina and make it a more pleasant place for boaters and they slapped me in the face.

When we first arrived, we paid $50 apiece as deposits on our dock key cards. Dawn lost hers several months ago and she had to get a new one. When I turned in our cards, I expected to receive my deposit back.

“We can’t give you your deposit for this one,” the girl behind the desk said. “It’s over a year old.”

“What?????”

If they told me that the deposit was only good for one year, I long ago forgot about it. The key still works, it’s still in good condition. I was angered.

I vented for a few minutes and she called the manager. The manager was resolute. No refund for me. I was incensed. After spending over $15,000 in their marina, they were going to gyp me out of 50 bucks? I couldn’t believe it.

I told them they were stealing from me and left in a huff. I will not say anything good about that marina to any other boaters I meet. I hope they lose business because of this.

By 9:30 we were under way. We cleared the harbor and set our course for the San Lorenzo channel. We didn’t see any more whale sharks or other interesting sea creatures. We just motored on down our course.

It was fiercely hot. About three in the afternoon, I couldn’t take it anymore. I grabbed a deck bucket, pulled up a bucket of water and splashed it over myself.

KC liked the idea and he and Vienne put on their swimming suits and splashed themselves. I had wet my clothes, but the swimming suits seemed like a good idea, so I changed.

I was thinking it might be nice, just to heave to and go overboard when KC suggested the idea. I pulled back on the throttle, took her out of gear and let the Victory coast to a stop. By now, Sam had his swim suit on too.

As soon as the way was off the boat, I was over the side. Sam and Vienne quickly joined me. We had to leave one person on the boat at all times. I came back and gave KC a turn.

The water was refreshing, but still warm. It took away the pain of the heat of the day.

We frolicked in the sea for about a half hour, then were under way again.

This time, for about an hour or so, then we had a problem. KC heard a new noise in the engine room and went down to investigate.

One of the lag bolts that hold the engine mounts to the engine bed had worked loose. What to do?

We surmise that the engine and the new drive shaft installation are slightly out of line, causing a vibration in the engine. The vibration caused the bolt to back out.

The bolt is screwed into the wooden engine bed. The engine bed is bonded to the concrete hull so there is no way to through bolt them.

I decided to put the screw back in and head for San Jose del Cabo. We could get help there if we needed it.

I had been running the engine at 3000 rpm all day. Usually I cruise at 2500 rpm. This was a test. I wanted to see what our fuel burn rate was at 3000 rpm and to see if anything shook loose. Well, it did.

After we got under way again, we discovered that the vibration began at 3000 rpm. At 2500 rpm we had no problem. At each watch change, when we check the boat, we check that the lag bolts are still secure and have had no further problem.

It will cost us about one knot keeping the speed down to 2500 rpm, but we’ll save about fifty gallons of diesel. At $4 per gallon, that’s $200. I think we can afford the extra time.

Dawn provisioned us with all kinds of great meals before we left. While we spent the week repairing the drive shaft, she spent the week cooking.

Vienne hadn’t eaten lunch (“I don’t want a sandwich.”) so I decided to cook the macaroni and cheese with chicken and broccoli that Dawn sent with us. It was a big hit. Everyone went back for seconds.

The night passed quietly and in the morning, we were at San Jose del Cabo.


PictureParty boat polutes the evening air
Friday June 27th, 2014

Day 2

KC and I talked our engine problem over and decided not keep going. We stopped at San Jose del Cabo for fuel, then were on our way by 930.

What a miserable day.

“I wouldn’t object if the weather for the whole trip was like this,” KC said as we left San Jose. It was flat calm.

It’s about fifteen miles from San Jose to Cabo San Lucas. In that time, the wind had freshened and the seas built.

We were bashing into thirty knot winds and six to eight foot seas. Everything on the boat was wet. Sam and Vienne were sea sick.

And we were making no progress. We were barely making headway. I knew if we could get around the cape, the weather would slacken and favor us, but we had to round the darn cape. Hour after hour we bashed into the seas and got no closer to our objective.

At about 3 in the afternoon, I held a brief conference with KC.

“It doesn’t make sense to me,” I said. “We’re bashing into these seas, going nowhere, burning up fuel, equipment and people. I’m thinking about heading into Cabo and anchoring for the night, then we can sneak out in the morning before the wind picks up.”

“I would,” he said.

So we bashed into the harbor at Cabo and dropped the hook.

KC and I went over the side to cool down, but this wasn’t the Sea of Cortez. The water was cool Pacific water. It was bracing. We jumped in, swam back to the boat and got out.

While everyone read or napped or played chess, I made a beef stew for dinner. By the time I was done cooking, I was so hot I jumped back in the bay. Then I showered off the salt water and took a nap. I was beat.

Cabo is a party town. The Mexicans encourage the Americans to come down, get drunk and spend their money. The Americans misbehave badly, doing things they wouldn’t do at home and the Mexican police look the other way. It’s good for business.

Jet skis go flying by, the occupants having no idea of the rules of the road or that they are disturbing the anchored boats. Party boats float in the bay, blaring music, hosts encouraging the party-goers to have “one more tequila” on the loud speakers. This went on until late at night.

As soon as a party boat hit the dock, they unloaded their guests and loaded up another bunch, then the same old jokes and the same old music. Music and loud speakers blared from the tents and palapas on the beach. Everyone was after the gringo dollar.

I’m not fond of Cabo. We couldn’t leave soon enough.


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The Log of the Victory - Days -2 and -1

7/9/2014

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Whale Shark Video

We Prepare to Leave

PictureTaking the Victory on her trail run
Tuesday June 24, 2014

Day -2.

We have completed the repairs and need to take the Victory out on a trial run. Kathy and Jenifer want to come with us, so we’ll make a day of it.

We started out leaving the dock and heading up the channel to open water. As we got to the entrance to the harbor, KC noticed a disturbance in the water. We watched it closer and it became a school of manta rays. I’ve never seen them school up before.

They were flopping around on the surface, flapping their wings in the air. It was really hard to tell what they were at first, but eventually we figured it out.

Our guests were amazed. Unfortunately, none of the rays took to the air so we had to watch them in the water.

A little further out of the bay, we saw something big in the water.

“Shark” KC yelled. I put the binoculars on it and sure enough, it was a juvenile whale shark. The Mexican fish and game people won’t let you go whale shark watching during the month of June, but we figured that if we took the boat out of gear and drifted, they might come to us.

And they did. There were several, ranging in size from twenty to thirty feet long. They came over to the boat to check us out. What were we?

I have never been so close to a whale shark in my life. Two of them swam up to the boat, then swam underneath us.

These guys have a pattern of little squares on their back. They are brown in color but the squares are defined by white lines. In the center of each square is a while dot. It gives them the overall look of a fawn’s colors.

They were so close that we could see the remoras attached to their backs. I’ve never had such a good look at their  mouths before. They have enormous mouths that look like the air scoops on a 1967 Ford Cobra racer.

They cruise through the water picking up plankton, shrimp and little fish, then filter the water out and swallow their dinner. Their entire lives are dedicate to feeding themselves. Hmmm . . . we have a lot in common.


PictureKC dives from the spreaders
After playing with the whale sharks for about an hour, we headed out to Pichilenque Bay where we dropped the hook and went swimming.

Kathy, KC and Sam put on quite a display of diving. KC climbed the mast to the spreaders and dove from there. Kathy and KC practiced their synchronized diving. I don’t think the US Olympic synchronized diving team has much to worry about.

Vienne, KC’s eight-year old daughter became quite the boat monkey. She climbed the swim steps back to the boat, then walk along the rub rail and climb over the lifelines to get aboard.

She told me “I really miss the ocean. I miss Mom and Aubrey, but I miss the ocean the most.” She went to sea with KC and Mandy when she was still in diapers and lived on their boat for three years.

There are two palapa restaurants at Pichilenque Beach. I decided that we should lower the dinghy and go ashore for lunch. KC ferried the first group in, but when he came back, Sam claimed the dinghy’s controls to run the second group ashore.

We ate at Luna Bruja (Witch Moon) restaurant and had a grand time. KC ordered a bowl of civiche for the table that was the best I have ever eaten.  I ordered Almejas Granitee for Dawn and myself. They are chocolate clams that are removed from the shell, diced and mixed with onions, tomatoes and chiles, then covered in cheese and baked. Yummy.

Kathy and Jennifer shared a pescado in mojo de ajo. Fish cooked in garlic.

We ate lunch at a plastic table under a palapa in the sand. The Margaritas helped. It was as wonderful a lunch as I’ve ever had.

But, alas, the day was waning. We dinghied back out to the Victory and took one last swim. Then up anchor and head back to port.

As fate would have it, our return trip was uneventful. All systems worked and we declared the Victory ready for sea.


PictureKC greases the bearings
Wednesday June 25th, 2014

Day -1

I am in hell!

Today we needed to grease the new bearings before we left on our trip. A half hour job.

KC had a doctor’s appointment, so Sam and I went to the boat to do the bearings. It was hot. The inside of the boat was like a furnace. I bought a grease gun from Auto Zone and it didn’t work. Sam spent three hours trying to figure out how to use it. Of course, there were no directions.

I hate to sound dependent, but we finally had to wait for KC to ride to the rescue. I called him and told him of our problems. He stopped by Milton’s and borrowed a grease gun. This one worked. We had the bearings greased in half an hour.

After that we tuned the rigging and called it a day.

We retired to the pool as all of us were way overheated.

For our last night ashore dinner, we went to Tail Hunter.

Kathy and Jennifer went on a snorkeling cruise but returned in time for Kathy to join us for dinner. Jennifer was not feeling too well.

After dinner, Dawn dropped us off at the boat and we slept on the boat. I wanted to get away early the next morning.

Naturally, fate put an obstacle in our way. They have been dredging the marina and the dredge was directly behind our slip. I had a shouted conversation with the operators and told them that we had to leave in the morning. I wasn’t sure that they understood, but when they wrapped up for the day, they moved their dredge.


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Lost in the Bearing Sea

6/23/2014

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PictureDinner at Casa Mary Lou
Time flies on the wings of thought and drags like a wheel in the mud.

As I told you last time, we had a bearing on the Victory’s drive shaft burn out. I can’t tell you how distressing this was, on the eve of our big adventure taking the boat back to San Diego. However, I didn’t have time to mope around about it. We had to get it fixed and we needed it fixed right now.

I was really lucky that KC is here to help me take the boat north. He is a great mechanic. I would not have tackled this job by myself.

Friday we took the day off to take Jim and Susan to the airport in Cabo. We spent Saturday cleaning the bilge and prepping the area so that we can work.

On Sunday KC and family went to church with our friend Milton and I went to work on tearing the drive shaft apart. There are couplings that look like big donuts on each end of the shaft that have been sitting, rusting in the bilge for years. On Saturday, we soaked them in penetrating oil. While KC was at church, I went down and got the bolts loose. I didn’t want to take the whole thing apart because I wanted KC to see how it went together.

Monday started with taking the couplings loose. Milton came down to join us and offer his not inconsiderable expertise. Once the couplings were disassembled, we had to take the flanges off the ends of the drive shaft so we could slide the bearings loose.

Naturally, nothing comes easy. The flanges wouldn’t budge. I felt like I was living in an episode of Home Improvement. Every time something didn’t work, Milton or KC would say “moooore power,” and we’d make a run back to Milton’s shop for a bigger sledge hammer, a grinder or some other power tool. Finally, they decided that the only way to get the flanges loose was with an oxy-acetylene torch.

Huh? You mean light one of those bad boys up inside my boat? I didn’t want to be anywhere near by when they did. Maybe they’d burn it to the water and relieve me of my pain.

I had to make a run to the store for parts. When I returned, the smoke alarm was blaring and I could smell the torch from the dock.

“You’re not supposed to be back so soon,” Milton said.

They heated the flange until it was cherry red, then doused it with cold water and popped it off. Unfortunately, there was a snapping sound when they poured the water on. Oops! We cracked the spacer.

Finding this part in La Paz will be next to impossible.

OK, the flange was off, but we still couldn’t get the bearings off. We had to remove the entire drive shaft from the boat.


Picture After a Hard's Day's Work
We undid all of the brackets, took apart the front coupling and it wouldn’t come free.

“Do you have a saw?” KC asked.

He had to cut a piece of bulkhead out to get the drive shaft free.

I just held my head and worried.

I had visions of getting hit hard on the beam by a rogue wave and the boat folding up like an accordion. Oh well, c'est la vie.

Finally, the shaft was free.

“Let’s take it to my shop and clean it up,” Milton said.

Once again, I felt like I was living with Tim the Tool Man Taylor.

At Milton’s shop “we” decided that the shaft really had to go to a machine shop. They would clean it and true up the shaft.

While I ran back to the boat for parts, KC took the flange off the other end and started buffing up the rusted steel parts.

Somewhere in all this mess, Mandy and the girls needed to go to the airport in Cabo and we needed to pick up Sam.

Sam is my brother-in-law, Connie’s sister Marti’s husband. Marti and Sam have been our sailing buddies for years. After all the abuse that Sam has endured sailing with me over the years, he keeps coming back. I think that there’s something wrong with that boy.

Anyway, Sam is here to help KC and me deliver the Victory to San Diego. It isn’t the first time that he’s gone on a sailing adventure with me where we end up covered in dirt, grease and sweat as we lay up somewhere and repaired the boat.

Welcome to La Paz, Sam. We put him right to work. Did I mention that Sam is also an excellent mechanic?

Milton worked his magic at the machine shop and returned with a looking-like-new drive shaft. The spacer that cracked was a little more difficult story. They had to weld it up and then re-machine it. That would take more time.

By now it’s Tuesday and all hope of setting sail on Thursday is gone. The good news though, is that neither Sam nor KC need to be back in the States anytime soon. So we trudge on.

KC and Milton got the bearings on the shaft and the shaft back in place while Sam and I scoured La Paz for parts. The following day, Milton picked up the spacer from the machine shop and we (actually KC) put the couplings back together.

Viola!
We are back in business. The drive shaft is re-assembled and the propeller turns. The cost for this major project: $150 for the bearings and about $100 for the machine shop work.

I know that if I had hired one of the boat repair services here in La Paz to fix it for me it would have cost $5000. Thank you Milton, KC and Sam.

Today we will finish up a couple of little projects and start cleaning up. Tomorrow I intend to take the Victory out for a sea trial. If all goes well, we could be ready to leave by Wednesday, only a week behind schedule.


PictureDawn still manages a smile with Aubrey
I would be remiss if I didn’t mention Dawn’s participation in getting the Victory ready to sail. I’ve mentioned before that she can’t go with us. Her back injury makes it too dangerous for her to be off-shore on a small boat.

However, she can get the galley and pantry ready for a hungry crew. She has spend the week cooking, shopping and provisioning. In hundred degree weather she was baking cookies, making lasagna and casseroles. The kitchen was an inferno.

Everyday we dragged home in the evening, dead to the world. A no less dead Dawn would have a pitcher of Margaritas and happy hour snacks for us, then, after the requisite dip in the pool, she provided dinner for up to eight people.

This was a truly Herculean effort. Thank you Dawn. We will appreciate every bite as we sail up the coas
t.
I will miss you on this trip.

Picture
Now, turning to other matters, I got a review for Hacker for Hire that really bothered me. It was a three-star review, so it wasn’t bad, but it wasn’t good either. The woman who wrote the review said “I did not like the constant comment on breast size and legs.”

This really bothered me. Was I wrong? Should I not be emphasizing the sex so much in these books? I thought long and hard on it and came to this conclusion: The reviewer is probably not part of my target audience. I do believe that a couple of twenty-something young men think about sex all the time. (I can’t say this from personal experience, you understand, but I’ve read about it.) When they meet a woman, they notice her physical appearance first, including breast size and legs.

The books are written from Ted’s point of view. If I were to de-emphasize women’s physical appearance I believe that I would not be true to Ted’s character. Some readers may not like the way he thinks, but that’s who he is. No one is perfect, least of all Ted. If some women don’t like how his mind works, I just have to apologize and say, “He is a twenty-three year old male. What do you expect?”

I have introduced a new character to the series that women will like. Catrina Flaherty is a strong female PI who kicks ass. My female beta readers love her.

What can I say? Something for everyone.


Picture
Speaking of Cat, I have a Catrina Flaherty short story that I will release in July. Here is your exclusive first peek at Mirror Image’s cover.

This story is a standalone story, but it gives readers a lot of insight into Cat’s character. It is based on a horrifying true story. I couldn’t make this stuff up.

Cat comes to the rescue of a battered wife whose husband just happens to be the chief of police. What do you do when your abuser is The Law? You call Cat Flaherty.

There is lots of action, a little sex and an emotional roller coaster. If you don’t remember the real-life event, I think you will be shocked by the ending. If you do remember it, then it should tug at your heart strings.

This will be my last post from La Paz for a while. We will begin our epic journey up the coast this week and I’ll be out of Internet and cell phone range for most of two weeks. I should have lots of good stories to tell you when we get to San Diego, so stay tuned.


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    Author

    Pendelton C. Wallace is the best selling author of the Ted Higuera Series and the Catrina Flaherty Mysteries. 

    The Inside Passage, the first in the Ted Higuera series debuted on April 1st,  2014. Hacker for Hire, The Mexican Connection, Bikini Baristas, The Cartel Strikes  Back, and Cyberwarefare are the next books in the series.


    The Catrina Flaherty Mysteries currently consist of four stories, Mirror Image, Murder Strikes Twice, The Chinatown Murders, and the Panama Murders. Expect to see Cat bounce around the Caribbean for a while.

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